DIY Jackson Kayak Back band replacement.

How to install a new JK back band using the classic Perception Java Creek Boat.

Kayak design has come a long way in the past 10 years especially in the area of outfitting. My first Perception Dancer had a nifty piece of foam for a back band and metal foot braces, the rest of the outfitting comprised of random scraps and of course some duct tape.  The goal of good outfitting is to fit you in the kayak quickly regardless of your dimensions with the use of back bands, foot braces, hip pads, and thigh braces. Back bands are one of the areas of outfitting where brands have been most creative.

        

        It is important that back bands are adjustable in order to add much needed lumbar support to the paddler and promote good posture. Today, there are various ways kayak designers have incorporated technologies from other sports.  Liquid Logic's Bad Ass system and some other top brands utilize technology from the ski boot industry to adjust back bands with a ratchet system. Jackson Kayak has taken the different approach of the cord and cleat system found on many sailboats. Ratchet back bands seem a little more flashy for the gadget heads out there while JK bands appeal to those who admire simplicity. The cord/cleat system is lightweight and involves few parts while the ratchet system can be bulky especially when the manufacturers locate it too close to where your spraydeck can rub on it. Both systems can fail and will over time, the cord of the JK system will wear and frey loosing it's grip while the plastic catches on the ratchet strap will wear down as well resulting in slipping. We have all experienced the slip when going for the big freestyle move or mid-way through a boof stroke, it sucks! Your kayak turns into a rowing machine and any needed support for strokes is lost. I choose the JK system since I can replace it easily, even in the middle of a jungle in Ecuador and still make it to the takeout. This article will help you add or replace a Jackson Kayak back band to your favourite kayak. The Perception Java Clay Wright signature series creek boat, a favourite in my Ecuador fleet, was in bad need of a back band and I was poised to update it with a Jackson Kayak back band Here is how I did it.

Remove old back band if one exists, if you are replacing a ratchet system you may want to mount the cleats in the same place the ratchets were mounted. Don't use the same area if the original ratchets were causing spraydeck wear.

Locate a place to mount the cleats, this should be somewhere in front of the paddler accessible to the hands, and if possible in-line with the metal rings on back of the Jk back band. Note if the cord is in a place that it will rub the hips of the paddler a re-routing tube will be needed to defend against rope burn. A re-routing tube can be a 3/4” ABS plumbing pipe with edges melted down to a smooth surface and can be located behind or through the seat hip area that is usually mounted to the boat.

If mounting the cleat in an old mounting location try to use at least one of the previous holes and insure there is ample room for the lock nut on the backing. I would stay away from rivets as they are not as strong as a nut and bolt combo.

If there are no holes you have to drill new ones choose a drill bit the same size as the bolt so you can use the plastic for threading. In the case of the Java, I had to burn a inch diameter hole with a soldering iron in the back of the plastic moulded thigh brace in order to get a locking nut on the bolt holding the cleat in place.  PS. Do not inhale.    



 Hot tip! If you have limited room to place the locking nut to meet the bolt, tape the nut to your fingertip and poke a hole in the tape to match the nuts hole. The tape can be removed after or kept as a sticky washer.

With the Java, I used a drill to make angled holes through the thigh brace to guide the cord into the backing of the cleat. During the installation it is important to keep in mind friction points where the cord may wear prematurely. Melting the hole edges is a good way of ensuring minimal wear.

Another important factor is the angle of the cord in relation to the paddlers hips. If the cord is in the way of the paddler it will cause rope burn. I used a foot long piece of tubular webbing that I ran the cord through for a cushy ride.

Feed the cord through the cleat first and then follow it through the thigh brace holes. Before feeding it through the webbing be sure to burn the ends of the webbing to prevent fraying. After it passes through divert it around the seat if needed. Run the cord through the metal back band rings and then back to the seat where you want to anchor the cord securely.

Test the system out and listen for wear points which should be corrected to avoid constant replacement of cord. Wear points can be corrected by feeding the cord through ABS plastic tubbing which should be secured.

Next, you have to secure the four pieces of shock cord located on the rear of the back band to the kayak. Such shock cord is designed to place the band on your back where you need it and keep it upright to prevent sitting on it every time you enter your kayak. I drilled holes in the cockpit rim to secure the top shock cords with a simple knot after passing it through the hole. Then I ran some cord through the rear foam centre pillar to secure two bottom cords. When drilling the cockpit rim be very careful, you do not want to drill through both levels of plastic causing a leak.

Put on your favourite river, pull the cords tight and push it into the cleats with your thumbs while pushing on your foot braces with your back securely into the band. This ensures the back band cord will not slip. Now Boof it!

Notes on Backbands

Some bands suck, mainly the ones with only one ratchet located in front of the seat, I am not going to mention any names but this brand is now made in China. First of all thinking that one ratchet adjustment is sufficient is ridiculous, it only tightens one side of the back band while the other is “secured” by a webbing cleat which slips. Also, the placement of the adjustment webbing at the very top of the band instead of the middle causes the band to tighten downward on a angle, dumb.

Back bands that are locked in place not allowing you to left them up in order to properly store overnight equipment in the stern should be avoided or replaced.

Ratchets that rub on the inside of your spray deck are not very well thought out and of course should be avoided, unless you want to replace your deck every season. If you can see the ratchets poking up through the spray deck it will wear the deck.

Back bands that are adjustable only at the back of the band are not the easiest to work with and an alternative system should be used.

Hope this helps!! Please feel free to comment with any suggestions or complaints. This article is based on my over 15 years of white water experience and 7 years of retail experience where I have sold almost every brand of kayak available in North America. That being said if you have a different experience and suggestions that will help my readers let er' fly.

For more information on Jackson Kayak Back band retrofit kits. Check out!

See you on the river!

Chris Ryman