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| Beautiful Baños |
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| Andres on the Topo |
After
a groggy wake up we headed to a great breaky spot called Rico Pan,
awesome coffee, good portion of eggs and the kayakers essential;
Bacon. I finished up my mandatory two cups of coffee and I was ready
for the Rio Topo. Pretty much the reason we were in Baños was to
recon the Topo and get our class IV/V on. We had no idea how awesome
it was actually going to be. We drove out around ten o clock to
arrive at a gate controlled by workers of a imminent 49mw hydro
project. Andreas made sure to ask if there were going to be blasting
river rock that day so we didn't have any soaring rock boofs to worry
about. The go ahead had us heading to the walking bridge put in that
is approximately 1 km from the gate. There was a nifty gauge located
on the river right just down stream of the bridge that told us the
level was around 5. Andreas confirmed it was a good level and that
there would be lots of sweet boofs. Not to disappoint there were
plenty, the twelve km run hosted some of the most awesome fade boofs
we could imagine, crystal clean water smoothing over large round
rock. The fade boof, in case you are unfamiliar with the term,
refers to taking a boof with cross river momentum sometimes using a
draw boof stroke as you angle towards a blissful landing. The river
signal for such a move is a standard boof signal, a fist with the
other open hand brushing the top of it followed by that open hand
sliding down the back of your head as if to signify the fade style
haircut Greg was so anxiously seeking. The run has a Hefty two
kilometre “warm-up” of continuous class IV boogie water with some
mandatory hole boofs and stunning scenery. When you get to an
obvious clearing on the river left with what looks to be the future
installation of a diversion tunnel you are done the warm up. If you
are at all gripped at this point you should get out and take a nice
hike up the river left bank to the road. The first class V is about
one kilometre from the end of the warm up. We got out on the left,
took a look, and decided putting in just below a six foot drop onto
pancake rocks was the best option. We still had to manoeuvre a huge
ledge hole across the bottom of the rapid, half the group ferried
above the ledge to the right and while others took the “linea de
pollo”, or “chicken line” on the left. The next rapid of
concern after countless fade boofs is named gata hidralica a stout
eight foot boof on the river right with a siphon on the left just
above it. The rapid finishes with a large hole on the right and
another at the bottom across the middle. Countless rapids hosting
sick boofs are to follow including a portage on river left that is
close to the end of the run. This run is full on for sure, do not
take it lightly. Expect around five to six hours of meaty class 4/5,
if you are used to low volume class five this might be a bit much for
you as the river can get juicy quick as it has every time I have run
it. You know you are the end of the river run when you come into a
confluence of big volume brown water running river right to left,
this is the Pastaza. Take out after a sweet wave train on the left
and kiss the ground, you made it!
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| Brown Pastaza! |
That
night we hung out with Andres and some new friends on the rooftop of
his apartment. From there we had the seats in town to the annual Box
Car championships. What a riot, there were obviously professional
racers and then some not so pro, maybe first time in such a car.
Wipe outs, air jumps, terrified looks and a huge cheering crowd all
part of the deal. The next day was a little foggy after a good night
on the town so a late start was much appreciated. After another
awesome breaky at Rico Pan we decided to do some much needed repair
on Greg's Jackson Villain. The previous night we managed to find
some lambre (wire) that was used as a part of a barricade, this was
key in our repair plan. Greg's well used villain has a large eight
inch crack that wrapped around the stern. We drilled holes along
each side of the crack shoelace style. We then sewed up the crack
using the wire, very time consuming and difficult to thread but
bomber! Next step was to attempt to weld cross link plastic, a feat
that is apparently impossible. With low and slow heat we were able
to seal up the crack and then apply tar roofing tape with aluminum
backing for a total seal. Not only did the repair job get the
Villain down the Topo again but also a full season or kayak guiding
in Ecuador. After a few hours of inhaling toxic plastic we were
ready for some big volume class 4 on the Pastaza river with Andres
and a young kayak guide named Lucho. We met Lucho at his parents
restaurant near the Pastaza river, great food and super friendly
family atmosphere. With full bellies and spinning heads we were ready
to fire it up.
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| big water fun |
The
Pastaza is well known as a classic rafting river in Ecuador,
unfortunately it is also known as a very dirty river. We paddled
some big water that day on the class III/IV section with pursed lips
and wide eyes. Big holes, waves, and must make ferries are par for
the course. Stunning waterfall views, lush jungle canyons, and hard
to read brown water make for a memorable river run indeed. If
putting in after the Topo Confluence, the start of the classIII/IV
section, be on the lookout for an early rapid that bends right, there
are large holes at the bottom of the rapid with a thread the needle
move required. One portage on the run about three quarters down can
be walked on the left and is obvious. Be sure to check out crystal
creek that comes in the river right just before the take out. The
section above this one hosts some classic big water class III+ with
mostly pool drop rapids. The last section is a nice class II scenic
float, great for a warm up. The Pastaza is a stunning river with
three great sections that make Baños a great weekend destination for
paddlers. After a fulfilling day practicing kick flips and wave
wheels on the many huge wave trains the lads were ready for some
night life.
Just
in time for some happy hour action we headed to our favourite local
bar and took advantage of the great street side view for people
watching. Although the night may have been a little blurry I do
remember dodging cocaine toting gringos and street corner tranny's
while hopping from dance bar to taco stand. Actually, the tacos in
Baños are delicious at one in the morning with guacamole (not at
most places in Ecuador) at a great deal. The taco stand is also
where we had the misfortune of meeting a vial gringo trying to tell
us which latin countries had the best looking women. He also seemed
to have a Columbian “girlfriend” that he was trying to pimp out.
We basically told him where to go but beware; Baños also attracts
some of the worst representatives of world tourists I have seen and
if you are going there to experience Ecuadorian culture stay clear of
the bar strip.
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| one of the many Topo Horizon lines |
The
morning of day three found ourselves one crew member down with a case
of the gringo belly. Maxi was not feeling top shape due to a poor
choice at dinner time and was not going to participate on the river
that day. Greg and I connected with Andreas and Lucho for some
paddling possibilities. We decided on checking out the waterfall
park n' hucks on the Rio Ulba. Water levels were off but we
immediately saw the potential for fun one this run. There was also
some potential on a sweet steep creeking run on the Rio Chico Verde
but we decided on a Topo Reunion.
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| The Topo Gauge |
Just to make it interesting the
water level came up three notches putting the level at eight on the
gauge, much meatier than the first run we did at five. Lucho fired
up lead for most of the way, Greg and I coined the term “Lucho
Lines” to describe some of the challenging lines he was choosing.
Lucho also figured it was his day to run the portage run near the
bottom of the run resulting in a mid river portage and paddle toss
that landed his paddle lost for about twenty minutes. With all
pieces together now we headed to the take out after a adrenaline
pumping big water creeking day. With whitewater in our brains and
Baños nightlife in our veins we decided to head back home via Tena
after an amazing road trip. Baños is a must see for travelling
kayakers who want the full experience and an amazing selection of non
paddling adventures.
For more info on Ecuador Kayaking check it out!
For more info on Ecuador Kayaking check it out!
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